About to pull the trigger on a 2015 v6 6mt 4wd OR and need advice...

My first post on TacomaWorld!

I'm definitely in need of guidance and advice. This will be my first Tacoma, and my first truck at all, so any insight, experience, or suggestions are very much welcomed.

For all of the below, what frequencies would you suggest, and any preferred brands of lubricant/fluid/etc. are definitely appreciated.

The truck I am purchasing is a 2015 Off-Road with 90K miles. It is a v6 4wd with a 6 speed stick, access cab, no mods to suspension or engine. I am going to assume the previous owner did almost no maintenance, just to be on the safe side.

I am familiar with vehicle maintenance; I've rebuilt a couple of engines, replaced axles, transmissions, a couple of clutches, etc. I'm familiar with tools. I do NOT however have a solid garage with a lift. I'll be doing this in my driveway and with ramps and jack stands. That said...

Things I will be doing immediately:
Engine oil
Front and Rear diff gear oil changes
Transfer case oil change
cabin filter
The air intake is going to be replaced with a K&N cold air intake within a week as well.

Things I plan on doing before winter:
Power steering fluid
Brake fluid
Coolant
Brakes and rotors

Is there anything else to which you think I should attend right away?

I've never had to change the gear oil on a manual transmission, but it looks like people do change the gear oil on trucks. Is this the case, and if so, what frequency would be the suggested interval?

Spark plugs, do people actually change them?
I have been under the impression that an modern plug will last the life of the vehicle, but I have seen several references to people changing plugs at 30k miles, which floors me.

Lastly, for the undercarriage. This vehicle is from Georgia and the frame is nearly perfect. I live in the Mid-Atlantic states with snow, salt, and slush. To preserve my truck, I figure I should get an undercoating; is there one you would suggest as better than others?

This is pretty much my dream truck, and I want it to last for decades. I kept my Honda Fit going for 360K miles and 17 years; I hope to get at least that from my Tacoma!

Again, any and all advice or guidance is appreciated.

Secher

 

Welcome and early Congrats!
Yes change the plugs and all fluids.
Woolwax, if you live in a salt state like me, Woolwax.

 

Yep, definitely a salt state, Pa., and I do lots of winter driving. Looking into woolwax now. Thank you!
Hopefully Monday. The anxiety is killing me.

 

I've got this same configuration in a 2014. ALL of the fluid changes are a piece of cake, especially with the manual transmission. There's just a drain plug and a fill plug. You drain out the old, clean the plug and refill until it runs out the fill hole. It's the same for transfer case and diffs.
Just use a good GL4 (NOT GL5) in the transmission and transfer case. . I've had good luck with Reline MT90. The diffs don't care so much on type, GL5 is fine for those, just keep them changed. After the first couple of changes (30k mile intervals), the fluid gets less dirty over time because all of the tiny machining marks on the gears are pretty well worn in.
PULL THE TRIGGER!

 

Sounds great, anyone else salivating ?

there’s a sticky on the forum for maintenance. Yes spark plugs should be changed and changing all fluids is ideal. Just inspect the frame for rust. Fluid film for undercarriage. GL

 

I’ve never seen a spark plug change interval over 100k, most are 30-50k. I’m also in PA and fluid film all my vehicles yearly, don’t waste your time with any sort of paint type undercoat

the k&n intake is also a waste of money unless you want to lose power and blast your maf sensor with dirty filter oil

 

I'd recommend NOT installing the K&N intake.
It's not going to help anything, and could potentially cause issues.

Fluid changes and DRIVE IT.
No need to spend money where it's not needed.
Save the money for gas.......


And coat the frame with a rust preventative. I don't care where you live. DO IT.

 

I don't know yet how to reply directly to someone, so I'll just have to quote your response.
I JUST got the notification, it will be ready for me to pick up Monday. I am SO stoked.
Been wanting this truck most of my adult life, and could never afford one.
I plan on dedicating the entirety of next weekend to maintenance.
Thanks very much for the encouragement and the info.
Have a great weekend!

 

Def going to do the changes. Is there any particular brand of undercoating you recommend? Right now I'm torn between woolmax, fluid film and surface shield. I'm leaning to the Woolmax, but I'm open to suggestions for superior products. I live in roughly central Pa.

 

Hrm, that is two votes against the K&N cold air intake. Okay then, you all know WAY more than me, so I just saved $200, AND the MAF. Nice.

 

I use fluid film, but I also use an air compressor first…the most important areas I feel are where the frames are lapped together, the boxed section and the hollow front crossmembers.. you gotta get in their.. I use the air compressor to “blow through” where the frames are lapped together, if you get on the top of the lap and hold your hand on the bottom of the frame lap you can actually feel air.. so I make sure it’s clean first then make sure I get oil in between the laps, the box, and any other hollow metal areas including the whole rocker area.. my two cents

 

Re: Maintenance items: Use ONLY GL4 rated gear oil in the manual transmission that's in your truck. NOT: "GL4/GL5" on the can: Don't buy it: Just "GL4": period. This is critical. It's somewhat hard to find on the shelf, but it's out there. Ignore parts counter folks who tell you it's "Compatible" with:..." Maybe on some other car, but definitely NOT on a 2nd gen Tacoma stick. Using the incorrect fluid will destroy the synchros very in short order, and there goes your barely broken-in 90K mile transmission to Tacoma heaven.

Use OEM spark plugs: Denso or NGK. You can find them online from Toyota dealer for $5-7 each from a local dealer through the Tacoma Parts website which offers free pick-up if you're close enough: no risk of counterfeit parts. If you find three of each brand when you remove them: that indicates they are the original factory installs and have never been previously changed. Remove them when the engine is "over-night cold". Torque them to spec with a good torque wrench. 50-60k is the normal interval in the manual. I stick to this not because I worry about them being worn out... I worry about them being in the aluminum head longer that that. The NGK and Denso plugs have nice plated threads, but I still worry about them over 50,000 miles. Stick to OEM filters: Air/Cabin/Oil. OEM Toyota Oil filters are easy to find at $5-7 each.

Welcome to TacomaWorld

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3le9ZT5HUlk

 

I just ordered a gallon of gl-4 redline MT90.
Do you by any chance know how long that stuff will keep in the bottle? if it is hard to get already, it isn't going to get any easier as time goes on. I'm thinking of purchasing 3 bottles to stash in the garage for the next 10 years or so.
Thank you for the sound advice!

 

I think I'm going to check a pro. I can do it myself, but I just watched a couple of videos and having a lift makes it really easy. I do not have a lift, and I think doing inside the frame and inside the panels will be really challenging with just ramps and jacks.
If they ask too much, then I'll do it myself, but I'm hoping it will be a few hundred bucks. Thanks for the advice, for sure! And two cents is infinitely more than zero cents, which is what I have in knowledge right now.

 

I’ve used both fluid film and Pb blaster surface shield on mine, don’t waste your time with the surface shield it’s way more expensive and doesn’t last any longer than fluid film. most shops near me charge ~$200 to spray a truck, then get yourself a couple cans to do inside the body panels.

 

I absolutely will. Did you do the Fluid Film on your own or get a shop to do it?
Heh, do you think it would be weird for me to take a bore scope to the dealer and run it into the frame? There is definitely some surface rust. I'm going to edit my original post and load a pic or two if I can.

 

It doesn't go bad/deteriorate over time. I believe normal the maintenance schedule for the three units is every 30,000 miles.

 

On the subject of fluid film, it’s really your decision. You can DIY fluid film
With spray paint cans of fluid film or
The sprayer system for a higher initial investment.

 

I use FluidFilm. Because I can get it local.

 

Any of the three rust preventatives will work for you, just use something that doesn't form a 'shell'.
As others have said, seriously, skip the cold air intake.
You can do everything you need to do on jack stands or ramps. Just be safe.
When I'm under my truck, even on jack stands, if you can leave the wheels and tires on, do. Then, if it does fall off, it won't crush you.
Be sure and wear a good N95 mask or even better a respirator when spraying that crap.
Be sure and post some pictures when you get it. I've had mine for about 9 years now and still love it.
As far as the power steering goes, I just put my ratio rite (any plastic cup) under the reservoir and pull the bottom hose. Drain and refill. Drive it for a few days and do it again. After a half dozen or so drains, you'll have some good, clean fluid in there. I just the appropriate transmission fluid (look it up).
Also, the little things, remove and grease your bed bolts. Replace your skid plate bolts with grade 8 and put a little grease or anti-seize on them. If not, they will rust in place and break on you later. Also, get the little foam filter out of your secondary air pump and put the little Uni Filter on it. Look that up as well.
You're on your way! I'm stoked for you, buddy!